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The KHO News is published monthly
1 USD=Rp10,0000  1 AUD=Rp 7,300
Email: jbsymons@indo.net.id
December 2005
KHO Laments the 
demise of Air Paradise
We have been promoting Air Paradise since they commenced operations in 2003. 
We always found them great to fly with, far better than the competition on the run, if you could call them competition. 
Many friends have flown to Bali with Air Paradise including my 86 year old mum Nancy. The staff were particularly good to her especially when she travelled back to Melbourne alone, personally assisting her through customs, immigration and  finding her a taxi. 
We are so sad to hear that the kindness of Pak Kadek in offering a full refund to passengers who wished to cancel after Bali BombII, 
was the airlines undoing. We are told nearly 30,000 people cancelled. When one considers they pay an average ticket price of A$800 the bill would have been around 25 million Australian dollars, few small businesses could survive that kind of a hole in the cash flow.
Pak Kadek Wiranatha must be admired for his efforts after Bali Bomb I, his enthusiasm and his new airline lead the recovery in enticing Australians back to Bali and ultimately helped his fellow Balinese survive that terrible disaster. This time things are worse, thousands will loose their jobs and their seems no hope of a recovery in the immediate future, especially considering the constant Bali bashing by the Australian media and over zealous travel warnings.
Message from Mum
John's mum, Nancy, would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year and to send her sincere thanks  to all those who made her
recent visit to Bali so enjoyable.
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 Kerobokan Home Office News
Page 2 
Living as an ex-pat in a foreign country sounds very exotic, true at first, but eventually one settles down, the once foreign customs of the locals become the 
day to day norm, we acquire a taste for the food, learn the language and start to feel completely at home. We even start to think like locals, bit of a worry, and feel like we are one of them until we accidentally catch a glimpse of ourselves in a mirror and are horrified to see our skin is white. Of course we can never be a local we are always a foreigner in a foreign land. We are just Bule, Bulai (albino) as the Indonesians call us. 
We all still have strong links with home, every day we think of family and friends far away and look forward to emails and calls keeping us up with the home gossip. Most of us get a satellite receiver to watch ABC Asia Pacific - some even a short wave or satellite radio so we can listen to Radio Australia. 
Satellite Dish at the KHO
Some go as far as going to Kuta to find 2 day old Australian newspapers recycled from aircraft cabins by cleaning staff. 
We all need that important link with
home. Once the sight of a Qantas aircraft flying overhead would bring yearnings to return, but then they deserted 
Bali sending us recycled 767 aircraft repainted in the unattractive Australian Airlines livery.
Not the same, something second rate, an airline for the routes Qantas can't operate profitably, due to the inefficient government owned business culture. Touted as a low cost airline, the fares are certainly not low cost, low cost to Qantas maybe. We felt the air link to home had been severed. 
Then the well known Balinese businessman Kadek Wiranatha who owns everything Bounty and who's lucky numbers are 66, 
Pak Kadek
bravely leased a single Airbus A-310 aircraft with the registration in his own initials PK-KDK, for around half a million US dollars a month and commenced flights to Perth and Melbourne offering low fares and the promise of a cheap holiday people could not dream of.
Air Paradise A-310 - PK KDK
The airline Air Paradise, with the slogan, Bali is our Home went straight to our hearts, because now Bali  - is our home too. 
The airline gave us direct access to our home city, we no longer felt cut off. We knew if we had to get home for a family emergency, a flight would be leaving tonight or tomorrow night and we would be there the next morning. Just a local call to the friendly Air Paradise staff 
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Page 3 
and they would do all they could to get you on the next flight out. They understood us, we no longer felt isolated. We were connected.
AP aircraft in Melbourne
The airline was a huge success it did more for the post Bali Bomb recovery than any other entity. Eventually Air Paradise leased a total of 4 aircraft to keep up with the demand, serving all Australian major capital cities, carrying up to 20,000 Australians to Bali a month.
Onboard AP Melbourne-Bali
It was a pleasant experience to fly Air Paradise, they were generous with their drinks and the meals ok.
A Bali lunch with a bread roll
throughout the flight goodies kept coming, Tim-Tams, peanuts, more drinks and even ice cream. 
They even took up a collection of small change to help Pak Kadek's personal Bali Bomb victim appeal - naturally the Aussies always gave generously. The whole operation felt good, you felt an important passenger not just a number as one does on other airlines. 
Cabin crew would actually take the time to stop and talk to you, they all revered boss, Pak Kadek, and were all dedicated because they all really felt they were helping Bali - especially the poor.
Disaster Strikes
Saturday October 1st we were at our favourite week-end retreat of Padang Bai, having dinner at Kerti restaurant, when at 8.30 our friend Rocky received an SMS that 3 bombs had exploded in Kuta, we were all devastated, this will be the end of Bali. We immediately thought of our lifeline - Air Paradise, how could they possibly survive with 4 huge aircraft with thousands of seats to fill when obviously tourists would dump Bali immediately. Air Paradise owner Kadek announced that he would waiver cancellation fees and any Australian wishing to cancel their Bali holiday would receive a refund. Qantas/Australian reluctantly followed with a refund 
policy also. Air Paradise reacted quickly, they bought in a new reduced schedule to Australia, leased out 2 of their aircraft - offered unprecedented low fares to try and woo Australians back to Bali, but sadly to no avail. As Pak Kadek said "the planes keep coming back empty"
Australians are shell shocked, with the constant media bombardment of terrorism in Indonesia, innocent Australians being locked up in the notorious Bali Kerobokan Jail and now more bombs - the fear barometer is on "very stormy"
How Australians see Bali
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Page 4 
Bali Rumours
In the two weeks leading up to the suspension of AP services there were many rumours in Bali that the airline would be forced to close, we all hoped and prayed this would not happen. Then Wed. evening Nov. 23 the Bali ex-pat SMS network went mad with the news "Air Paradise is no more", we couldn't believe it, we didn't want to believe it - our air bridge to home was to be cut for good. Everyone felt sorry for Pak Kadek, as in the good old Aussie tradition - he gave it a go -everyone admired him for that, only to fail through no fault of his own, just another victim of terrorism. Qantas no doubt heaved a sigh of relief that this little upstart airline was gone. To celebrate Qantas offered to take AP passengers home free, giving them a taste of the future Bali of travel. That's if they can afford it. 
Don't ask for extra sugar!
email us if you want to know why
But will Bali tourism survive? It's become common for travel writers and hotel hustlers to put on a brave face and say the island will bounce back. All except fundamentalist terrorists pray their optimism will win out, but the question is when. Robert Murdoch, the Australian head of the Indonesian Chamber of Commerce and Industry, told ABC Radio in Australia, that Bali hotels were operating at below break-even and many would go bankrupt. 
many would go bankrupt
Aussie holidaymakers whinge about ruined holidays, but the Balinese have more serious concerns. AP's collapse will have a knock on effect throughout the nation. It's not just the 350 airline workers who face a bleak future; 
Sobat's Kadek & son - worried
think of the hotel staff, the bus drivers, the handicraft makers, the shop workers. Then there's the impact on the Indonesian economy, already suffering 18% inflation and millions unemployed.
Bali needs everyone's support, not because of maudlin sentiment and to boost business, but to preserve a decent society. The grounding of Air Paradise must not be seen as a triumph for terrorism.
Example Fares to Bali RT from MEL, BNE or SYD
AUD Low-season from Feb 2006
Airline
Tkt
Tax
TL
Via
Valid
Garuda
863
282
1145
DIR
35 day
China Air
883
257
1150
TPE
35 day
Singapore
907
309
1140
SIN
90 day
Singapore
920
309
1229
SIN
6 mon
Qantas
1038
280
1318
DIR
35 day
Malaysian
1066
260
1320
KUL
1 year
Garuda 
1105
282
1387
DIR
1 year
Qantas
1271
280
1551
DIR
1 year
Cathay
1624
272
1896
HKG
1 year
JAL
1635
265
1900
TKO
1 year
Courtesy of travel.com
John grounded
John had a one year Air Paradise ticket to Melbourne. He could travel home with Qantas before Dec. 12, (the cut off date for the Qantas return offer), however the problem is the cost of getting back to Bali, at that time it is peak season with fares in the vicinity of A$2000 inc. tax. Feb. 19 John & Jamal are travelling to Malaysia and Thailand for a 3 week holiday concluding on Feb. 8, Jamal will travel back to Bali, from Kuala Lumpur. John will take a bus to Singapore then fly with the Singapore Airlines low cost subsidiary Tiger Airways to Darwin
where he will spend a couple of days.  Feb. 13 John will fly direct to Melbourne with Virgin Blue, arriving the next day.  At that time he will be able to, hopefully get a low season fare back to Bali. But sadly it won't be the bargain fare he enjoyed with Air Paradise. 
Bus to Singapore A$11, Tiger Airways to Darwin A$136, Virgin to Melbourne A$201, Tl A$355 inc tax
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 Kerobokan Home Office News
Page 5 
KUTA, Bali - The inaugural Bali Jazz Festival came close to “point zero” after terrorist bombings killed 23 people here seven weeks ago. Sponsors and performers cancelled, tourist numbers plummeted, and dogs and security guards became the new welcoming face of the tropical island. 
But the show went on and the three-day festival featuring performers from 10 countries 
debuted Nov. 18 - two days after police named three captured men as suspects in the attacks. Total attendance for the 40 concerts on two stages at the Hard Rock Hotel was light, with officials lowering an initial goal of 15,000 down to 2,000. 
That may have been furthered dampened - literally - by heavy rain the final two days. But they also called their effort part of the healing process and hope positive reaction from participants serves as a foundation for future years. 
“We kind of knew that this was not going to be a big knockout in terms of turnout and all that,” said Gita Wirjawan, chairman of the festival's advisory board. “But in terms of what we're doing for Bali and what we're doing for country we couldn't have asked for more.” None of the dozens of performers and listeners interviewed expressed safety concerns, even as the U.S, 
Australia and the United Kingdom was issuing fresh travel warnings following the discovery of a Web site detailing tactics for killing foreigners in Indonesia. 
Canadian pianist Ron Davis said it's an honour playing somewhere with so many languages and cultures, much like his homeland. “We will go back to Canada and tell people what a beautiful country this is,” he said, during a performance with his trio
at a pre-festival gala dinner. “There is nothing to be afraid of.” Most listeners were locals, with few calling themselves hardcore jazz fans, but Paolo Precchia, on a business trip from Napoli, Italy, was among those making an extra effort to hear “very special music” by Indonesian performers. Sadly the festival lost sponsors and its biggest international names, including the James Taylor Quartet and Harvey Mason, after the bombings.
Desperate Transport
Java Indonesia: Dozens of young boys cling to the outside of a crowded economy class train from the Jatinegara station in East Jakarta bound for Senen station in Central Jakarta. The stowaways do not have to pay for a ticket. They insisted on clambering aboard on Monday after learning that the train was crowded with holiday travellers returning from the annual Idul Fitri celebrations to the capital from cities in Central and East Java.
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Page 6 
Jamal Back from Bandung
Jamal at Jakarta Air Port
As we mentioned last month Jamal returned home to Bandung for the annual Idul Fitri holiday, he returned to Bali  Nov 8. Since the Government fuel price hike of 127% to travel by bus or train is no longer cheap, especially since the stiff competition from the new start-up low cost airlines. 
Jamal booked a ticket with Awair the Indonesian .
subsidiary of Malaysia's Air Asia.
Jamal left his mum's home in Ranca Ekek at 06:00 by suburban train to Bandung. 08:00 he boarded the 
Rp 45,000 (A$6.15), business class train to Jakarta arriving at 1130, took the Rp15,000 (A$2) bus to Soekarno Hatta Airport. 
The Airfare cost Rp380,000(A$52) including taxes making a total of Rp440,000 (A$60) for the journey. The gruelling 25 hour direct bus costs  Rp380,000 (A$52). Jamal arrived in Bali at 19:15. No wonder the bus companies are complaining about the cheap airlines.
AWAIR
The airline was established in 1999 by Abdurrahman Wahid (known in Indonesia as Gus Dur), former chairman of the Nahdlatul Ulama Muslim organisation 
Gus Dur
and later president of Indonesia. 
It started operations on 22 June 2000 with Airbus aircraft, but after 10 months all flights were suspended in March 2002. 
Original AWAIR A310 Airbus
Awair started operating domestically within Indonesia as an associate of AirAsia in Dec. 2004. AirAsia has a 49% share which they reputably paid 1 Million US. 
AWAIR B737 Aircraft today
The airline uses Boeing 737 aircraft from AirAsia with the decals removed and AWAIR decal added.
AWAIR interior
Melbourne Fans
Retired Shakespearean actor Mr Ian Davey who performed regally at the Fold Bart in Stratford on Avon, East Gippsland, visited with Ian and Mandy in the Victorian regional city of Bendigo. "Capital place"  the old thespian cried as he stepped in a wet cow pat. The hosts reported nothing has changed, he is bull of sullsit and  had his usual nap during dinner.
John's grand niece and nephew, Bayln & Makenzie off to play tennis.
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Page 7
Mid November we travelled to Bedugul to attend a BBQ at Rob & Wins, Misty Mountain - Hill Station. The previous night we stayed at our favourite one  star hotel with the 5 star view in Bedugul, Ashram. The photo above is the view from our room at Ashram Hotel.
Jamal at Ashram Hotel
The views from Ashram Hotel are magnificent, the best in all of Bedugul. If you are booking a room we suggest the rooms marked un red below:
Rooms are priced from Rp 100-200k
(AUS $13- $26) Ashram Hotel, Bedugul, Bali. Ph +62 368 21 450
After the free breakfast we checked out and went to the Bedugul Market, where I bought some vegetables and Jamal a new mini-backpak to use on his motor bike. Then we went onto Misty Mountain - Hill Station for a BBQ.
The house at Misty Mountain is coming on well should be finished by Christmas "this year".
Aaron & Belinda
Rob & Win's friends from Sydney Aaron & Belinda spending three weeks in Bali. They were not perturbed by the second Bali bomb and even brought  their 12 year old twin daughters. They even spent a few days in Lombok.   F
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Daughter, Mikaela, Georgia and Gede, the Misty Mountain manager fire up the BBQ.
German Consulate Staff
Robert & Gede tend the BBQ
Barman Rob
Win spoilt us with a rare treat, imported Australian sausages and steak. The delicious fresh salads were grown on the property.
Kids being kids
Jamal sings, Pak Made (back)
Low cost carrier, Lion Air of Indonesia has again announced delays in their planned Denpasar, Bali - Perth, W.A. service. Initially the daily flights were to commence November, however following Bali Bomb II the start up was further delayed. Now since the demise of Air Paradise and the lack of demand from Australia the airline has announced a further delay. The airline has already opened a sales office in Perth and holds all the necessary licences from the Australian and Indonesian authorities. So far fare prices have not been announced.
Lion Air Meal
Lion Air Indonesia
Lion Air is a low cost, no frills Indonesian carrier, they commenced services in 1999 Its full name is PT Lion Mentari Airlines. In 2002 one of their aircraft crashed on take-off and was written off; however no one was killed. In November 2004, however, an MD-82 crashed in Solo, Java, killing 25 people. the accident report was whitewashed, attributing the cause the airport condition. Data however showed pilot error and lack of reserve fuel forcing the pilot to land in bad weather. 
Nov 2004 Fatal Crash
Lion has been plagued by a string of accidents and incidents, undermining public confidence. However, it has a remarkable agility for aggressive marketing. 
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Page 9 
While Aaron, Belinda and the girls from Sydney were in Bali we took them to Padang Bai for the week-end. Friend Amang came over from Lombok to take them back with him for a few days, they visited Sengigi and Gili Trawangan.
Amang & Aaron
This time in Padang Bai we stayed in a new hotel - Billabong, very nice, cost A$7 inc. breakfast.
Billabong Entrance
Our room at Billabong
John outside the room
Saturday night we started with cocktails in Robert and Wiwin's bungalow followed by dinner at Kerti restaurant, then later on to Kinky bar on the beach
Georgia and Jamal
Ines and Amang
Belinda & Mikaela
Robert and Belinda
Mikaela and Wiwin
Belinda and Jamal
You can see everybody is having a great time - come join us, there has never been a better time to come to Bali and whilst having a great time help the Bali recovery.
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Page 10 
We Visit Wulan's
A friend of Jamal's, Wulan runs a furniture shop on Jl Tangkuban, 
Perahu No: 298, Padang Sumbu Kaja, only minutes from the KHO. Late November we, went along with Pak Made of Warung Sobat for closing time cocktails, to meet Wulan, her husband & daughter.
Wulan's Furniture Store
Wulan stocks antique and reproduction furniture, she tells us she often sends containers overseas. 
Wulan
Wulan and her husband are from Singaraja, and have a daughter Angie, 11 and a son Reza, 17. We had a nice time checking out the stock and drinking some nice French white wine from Pak Made.
Wulan certainly has some interesting pieces, many in beautiful teak imported from Java.
Some of the stock
Husband Yoga with Pak Made
Daughter Angie and John
Village Glee Night
Whilst Rob and Win's friends Belinda, Aaron and the girls were in Bali we spent an evening at Melody Kenangan (memory) dance hall in Denpasar, they all loved it.
But not sure about the food
The girls dance with mum
Meeting M.K. singing star Lillilu
Jamal croons "Tennessee Waltz"
Irma and Win
Mikaela & Georgia
Rob & Ines - "that photo, huh!"
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Page 11 
See Darwin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur & Bali for only A$743 return from Melbourne.
Due to the Air Paradise collapse and John having to find a new way home, we came up with this interesting travel itinerary. Asia abounds with cheap airlines, the latest entrant Tiger Airways from Singapore offering a A$31 ow+tax fare Singapore/Darwin. 
Suggested Itinerary
 Flight Transport
 A$
MEL-DRW Virgin Blue
201
DWN-SIN Tiger A/ways
 80
SIN-KUL Bus
24
KUL-DPS AirAsia
73
DPS-KUL AirAsia
73
KUL-SIN Bus
 11
SIN-DWN Tiger Airways
80
DWN-MEL Virgin Blue
201
-
Total 743
The above fares were available at the time of writing for Feb. 2006. and include taxes - except DPS Dep. tax. Imagine the great time you will have seeing all these exotic cities at unbelievable prices. You can book all these flights on the net and pay by credit card. See the links section at end of the article.
Air Asia Excursions
You can even add other excursions with Air Asia and other low cost carriers. Add Thailand, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Laos or  Cambodia.
Air Asia Boeing 737
 Flight Carrier   A$
KUL - Penang AirAsia
25
KUL - Phuket AirAsia
54
KUL - Bangkok AirAsia
86
KUL - Macau AirAsia
79
The above are not inclusive of tax.
Links:  Air Asia   Tiger Airways
Virgin Blue   JetStar Asia    ValuAir
Tourism Malaysia  Tourism Thailand
Malaysia/Thai trains  Lonely Planet 
Legend: DPS/Denpasar Bali, KUL/Kuala Lumpur, SIN-Singapore, DRW-Darwin, MEL-Melbourne. 
Bali Airport Woes
Ngurah Rai airport has a problem. The current runway is only 3,000 meters in length, insufficient for the new Airbus A380. Even a fully fuelled and loaded Boeing 747-400 cannot take-off and fly to Europe.
The first proposal was to extend the runway out into Benoa harbour and run the sole road to Nusa Dua under an underpass. Unfortunately the Balinese Hindi religion does not allow overpasses or underpasses as a higher cast person may end up below a lower cast person.
The runway can not be extended further to the west as scientists believe Kuta beach would be eroded away. The next proposal was to extend out further into Benoa harbour and run the road around the end of the airport boundary. 
This, environmentalist fear would destroy the wetlands of Benoa. 
A further problem is that it is expected that in 5 years Bali's airport will have reached saturation and require a second runway. The problem, there is a holy temple (Pura) right in the middle of where the runway would go, it cannot be moved or destroyed. Government officials say due to the impasse, they should go ahead with the proposed new airport in Lombok.
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Page 12 
 The KHO Terrace
Guests arriving at the KHO enter through these Balinese doors to the house and terrace garden area.
Looking up one observes the old cast iron Javanese kerosene lamp.
Just inside a waiting area for guests, business and trades people.
View from the house entrance.
The centre point of the KHO garden terrace is the outdoor table used for breakfast, lunch, evening drinks or just relaxing. 
Next to the table is the garden area, with it's fountain and pouring girl, Rahayu. She really comes to life each evening.
. Behind Rahayu and the fountain is a traditional Balinese terracotta night lamp
The serene face of Buddha on the wall to remind you to slow down and reflect.
These two traditional Balinese statues represent a dual deity figures in the form of a God and a Goddess; a God being a "Dewa" and a Goddess a "Dewi",  the dual God/Goddess are two halves of the same whole, or the One Total Devine Consciousness. 
Overlooking the garden is a statue of the mythical character Hanoman from the Balinese version of the Ramayana story, where Rama seeks the help from Hanoman and his monkey soldiers. 
The KHO is the affectionate name of our house in Bali, this a non - commercial site, to keep our many friends in touch with the local scene. Our aim is to help the local people through promoting tourism. The KHO web site: http://www.geocities.com/jbsymons_2000 If you wish to unsubscribe please email us at:jbsymons@indo.net.id
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